Handbook of Museum Textiles, Volume 2
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portes grátis
Handbook of Museum Textiles, Volume 2
Scientific and Technological Research
Thomas, Sabu; Pandey, Ritu; Jose, Seiko; Pandit, Pintu
John Wiley & Sons Inc
12/2022
416
Dura
Inglês
9781119983385
15 a 20 dias
666
Descrição não disponível.
Preface xv
1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1
Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 2
1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 2
1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 3
1.4.1 Dimensional Changes 4
1.4.2 Change in Modulus 4
1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 5
1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 5
1.5.2 Fading of Dyes 6
1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 6
1.5.4 Light Ageing 7
1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 7
1.6.1 Temperature 7
1.6.2 Relative Humidity 7
1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 8
1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 8
1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 8
1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 9
1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 9
1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 9
1.9.1 Insects and Pests 9
1.9.2 Mold 11
1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 11
1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 11
1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 13
1.11.1 Alienation 13
1.11.2 Fire 13
1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 13
1.12 Avoiding Damages 13
1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 13
1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 14
1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 14
1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 15
1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 15
1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 15
1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 16
1.13.1 Moth Management 16
1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 16
1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 17
1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 18
1.13.2.3 Traditional Method 18
1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 18
1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 18
1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles 19
1.14 Conclusion 19
References 20
2 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23
Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu
2.1 Introduction 23
2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 25
2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 25
2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 26
2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 27
2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 28
2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 28
2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 29
2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 30
2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 30
2.4.1 Prevention Methods 31
2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 31
2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 31
2.4.1.3 Storage 32
2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 32
2.4.2 Remediation Methods 33
2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 34
2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 34
2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 34
2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 35
2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 35
2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 35
2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 36
2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles 37
2.6 Conclusion 37
References 38
3 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45
Hana Lukesova
3.1 Introduction 45
3.2 Optical Microscopy 46
3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 46
3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 47
3.2.1.2 Finishing 47
3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 48
3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 49
3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 50
3.2.2.4 Finishing 51
3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 52
3.2.3 Digital Microscopy 52
3.3 Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 53
3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 53
3.3.1.3 Finishing 54
3.3.1.4 Dyeing 54
3.3.1.5 Quality 54
3.3.1.6 Degradation 55
3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 55
3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 56
3.4 Conclusion 56
References 57
4 Computational Structural Analysis 61
Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel
4.1 Introduction 61
4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 62
4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 65
4.3 Historical Textiles' Modeling 67
4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 67
4.3.2 Finite Element Method 68
4.3.3 The Rheological Model 68
4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 70
4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 71
4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 76
4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 76
4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 77
4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 78
4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 79
4.5 Conclusion 79
Acknowledgement 80
References 80
5 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85
Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety
5.1 Introduction 85
5.2 Characterization Methods 87
5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 87
5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 89
5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 90
5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 90
5.2.2.3 Detectors 92
5.2.2.4 Limitations 93
5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 94
5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 96
5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 97
5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 99
5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 100
5.3 Printing Techniques 101
5.4 Conclusion 102
References 103
6 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107
Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He
6.1 Introduction 108
6.2 Dating of Textiles 108
6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 110
6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 110
6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 111
6.3 Molecular Analysis 112
6.3.1 DNA Analysis 112
6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 114
6.4 Proteomics 115
6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 115
6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 117
6.5 Isotopic Tracing 118
6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 118
6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.6 Thermal Analysis 120
6.7 Optical Measurement Tests 121
6.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis 122
6.8.1 Mass Spectrometry 123
6.8.2 Chromatography 123
6.8.3 Electrophoresis 124
6.8.4 Microextraction 124
6.9 Conclusion 126
References 126
7 Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles 131
Anna Klisinska-Kopacz
7.1 Introduction 131
7.2 Sampling 132
7.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays 133
7.3.1 X-Ray Radiography 133
7.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence 135
7.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis 137
7.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction 139
7.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy 140
7.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 141
7.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy 143
7.5 Case Studies 144
7.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner 144
7.5.2 16th Century Carpet 146
References 148
8 NDT of Historic Textiles-Brief on Theory and Applications 151
Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose
8.1 Introduction 151
8.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy 152
8.3 Atomic Force Microscopy 154
8.4 Raman Spectroscopy 154
8.5 Computed Tomography 156
8.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy 157
8.7 Optical Microscope 157
8.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer 159
8.9 Carbon Dating 161
8.10 X-Ray Diffraction 162
8.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy 163
8.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 164
8.13 Conclusion 165
References 165
9 Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 171
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
9.1 Introduction 171
9.2 Photographic Methods 172
9.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR) 173
9.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence 173
9.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR) 174
9.2.4 False-Color Imaging 174
9.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging 175
9.3 Colorimetry 176
9.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy 177
9.5 Fluorimetry 185
9.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy 186
9.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) 187
References 187
10 Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 191
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
10.1 Introduction 191
10.2 Spectroscopic Methods 192
10.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS) 192
10.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS) 193
10.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman 195
10.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy 201
10.3 Chromatographic Methods 202
10.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC) 202
10.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) 204
10.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) 205
10.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry 206
10.4 Other Techniques 208
References 209
11 Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles 215
Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas
11.1 Introduction 215
11.2 NMR Spectroscopy 216
11.3 Mass Spectrometry 217
11.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 217
11.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy 218
11.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) 218
11.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF) 219
11.8 Transmission Electron Microscope 221
11.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis 221
11.10 DNA Analysis 222
11.11 Amino Acid Composition 223
11.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting 223
11.13 Chromatographic Techniques 225
11.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 226
11.15 Thin Layer Chromatography 228
11.16 Gas Chromatography 229
11.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy 229
11.18 Conclusions 230
References 231
12 Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles with a Focus on Tapestries 235
Rosa Costantini
12.1 Introduction 235
12.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries 236
12.3 Conserving Tapestries 237
12.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration 238
12.3.2 Current Display Methods 239
12.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques 239
12.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing 240
12.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques 241
12.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC 242
12.6 Conclusions 243
References 243
13 Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating 247
Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli
13.1 Introduction 248
13.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings 248
13.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets 252
13.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries 255
13.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes 258
13.6 Conclusion 262
Acknowledgment 263
References 263
14 Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS 267
Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair
14.1 Introduction 267
14.2 Materials and Methods 269
14.2.1 Preparation of Samples 269
14.2.2 Instrumentation 269
14.3 Extraction of Dyes 270
14.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) 270
14.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements 270
14.4 Result and Discussion 270
14.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample 271
14.4.2 Red Dye 271
14.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 271
14.4.4 Green Dye 273
14.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 275
14.4.6 Yellow Dye 275
14.4.7 Black Dye 276
14.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 278
14.5 Future Scope and Studies 280
14.6 Conclusion 280
Acknowledgment 280
References 281
15 Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum Conservation and Exhibition 283
Maria Cybulska
15.1 Introduction 283
15.2 Deterioration of Textiles 284
15.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles 285
15.4 Analysis of Fibers 285
15.5 Analysis of Threads 290
15.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects 292
15.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis 293
15.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles 294
15.9 Conclusion 299
References 300
16 Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation 303
Neven Fahim
16.1 Introduction 303
16.2 Documentation and Condition 304
16.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object 304
16.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study 305
16.2.3 Dating of the Object 305
16.2.4 State of Deterioration 305
16.3 Testing and Analysis 307
16.3.1 Morphological Study 307
16.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 307
16.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis 307
16.3.4 Analysis of Color Values 308
16.4 Results and Discussion 308
16.4.1 Stereo Microscope 308
16.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 308
16.4.3 FTIR Analysis 310
16.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements 312
16.5 Treatment Methodology 312
16.5.1 Humidification Process 313
16.5.2 Testing the Acidity 313
16.5.3 Cleaning Process 313
16.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning 313
16.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning 313
16.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support 314
16.5.5 Permanent Fixation 314
16.6 Conclusion 315
Acknowledgment 315
References 316
17 Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues 319
S. Franca de Sa, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita
17.1 Introduction 320
17.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings 321
17.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion 321
17.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC 322
17.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections 322
17.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections 324
17.2.4.1 TPU Coatings 327
17.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings 332
17.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions 335
17.2.4.4 Main Considerations 336
17.3 Experimental 337
17.3.1 Met Museum 337
17.4 Damage Atlas 337
17.5 Conclusions 341
17.6 Future Research 341
References 342
18 Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles 345
Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez
18.1 Introduction 346
18.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles 348
18.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 349
18.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 350
18.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 352
18.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices 354
18.4 Conclusion 356
Acknowledgments 357
References 357
19 Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums-Novel Approach 361
Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary
19.1 Introduction 361
19.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums 362
19.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums? 363
19.4 Digital Technologies-Tools and Techniques 364
19.4.1 Multimedia Materials 364
19.4.2 The World Wide Web 364
19.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing 364
19.4.4 Presentation Technologies 365
19.4.5 Simulations and Models 365
19.4.6 Microworlds and Games 365
19.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video 365
19.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities 365
19.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum 368
19.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS 368
19.5.2 Websites 369
19.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India) 370
19.5.4 Virtual Museums 370
19.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition) 372
19.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App 372
19.5.7 Roboguides 373
19.5.8 BYOD in Museums 373
19.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions 374
19.6.1 Pros 374
19.6.2 Cons 376
19.7 Conclusion 376
References 377
Index 379
1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1
Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 2
1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 2
1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 3
1.4.1 Dimensional Changes 4
1.4.2 Change in Modulus 4
1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 5
1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 5
1.5.2 Fading of Dyes 6
1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 6
1.5.4 Light Ageing 7
1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 7
1.6.1 Temperature 7
1.6.2 Relative Humidity 7
1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 8
1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 8
1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 8
1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 9
1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 9
1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 9
1.9.1 Insects and Pests 9
1.9.2 Mold 11
1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 11
1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 11
1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 13
1.11.1 Alienation 13
1.11.2 Fire 13
1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 13
1.12 Avoiding Damages 13
1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 13
1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 14
1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 14
1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 15
1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 15
1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 15
1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 16
1.13.1 Moth Management 16
1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 16
1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 17
1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 18
1.13.2.3 Traditional Method 18
1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 18
1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 18
1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles 19
1.14 Conclusion 19
References 20
2 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23
Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu
2.1 Introduction 23
2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 25
2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 25
2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 26
2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 27
2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 28
2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 28
2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 29
2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 30
2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 30
2.4.1 Prevention Methods 31
2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 31
2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 31
2.4.1.3 Storage 32
2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 32
2.4.2 Remediation Methods 33
2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 34
2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 34
2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 34
2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 35
2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 35
2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 35
2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 36
2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles 37
2.6 Conclusion 37
References 38
3 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45
Hana Lukesova
3.1 Introduction 45
3.2 Optical Microscopy 46
3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 46
3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 47
3.2.1.2 Finishing 47
3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 48
3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 49
3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 50
3.2.2.4 Finishing 51
3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 52
3.2.3 Digital Microscopy 52
3.3 Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 53
3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 53
3.3.1.3 Finishing 54
3.3.1.4 Dyeing 54
3.3.1.5 Quality 54
3.3.1.6 Degradation 55
3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 55
3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 56
3.4 Conclusion 56
References 57
4 Computational Structural Analysis 61
Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel
4.1 Introduction 61
4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 62
4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 65
4.3 Historical Textiles' Modeling 67
4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 67
4.3.2 Finite Element Method 68
4.3.3 The Rheological Model 68
4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 70
4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 71
4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 76
4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 76
4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 77
4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 78
4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 79
4.5 Conclusion 79
Acknowledgement 80
References 80
5 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85
Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety
5.1 Introduction 85
5.2 Characterization Methods 87
5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 87
5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 89
5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 90
5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 90
5.2.2.3 Detectors 92
5.2.2.4 Limitations 93
5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 94
5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 96
5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 97
5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 99
5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 100
5.3 Printing Techniques 101
5.4 Conclusion 102
References 103
6 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107
Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He
6.1 Introduction 108
6.2 Dating of Textiles 108
6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 110
6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 110
6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 111
6.3 Molecular Analysis 112
6.3.1 DNA Analysis 112
6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 114
6.4 Proteomics 115
6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 115
6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 117
6.5 Isotopic Tracing 118
6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 118
6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.6 Thermal Analysis 120
6.7 Optical Measurement Tests 121
6.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis 122
6.8.1 Mass Spectrometry 123
6.8.2 Chromatography 123
6.8.3 Electrophoresis 124
6.8.4 Microextraction 124
6.9 Conclusion 126
References 126
7 Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles 131
Anna Klisinska-Kopacz
7.1 Introduction 131
7.2 Sampling 132
7.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays 133
7.3.1 X-Ray Radiography 133
7.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence 135
7.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis 137
7.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction 139
7.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy 140
7.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 141
7.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy 143
7.5 Case Studies 144
7.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner 144
7.5.2 16th Century Carpet 146
References 148
8 NDT of Historic Textiles-Brief on Theory and Applications 151
Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose
8.1 Introduction 151
8.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy 152
8.3 Atomic Force Microscopy 154
8.4 Raman Spectroscopy 154
8.5 Computed Tomography 156
8.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy 157
8.7 Optical Microscope 157
8.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer 159
8.9 Carbon Dating 161
8.10 X-Ray Diffraction 162
8.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy 163
8.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 164
8.13 Conclusion 165
References 165
9 Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 171
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
9.1 Introduction 171
9.2 Photographic Methods 172
9.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR) 173
9.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence 173
9.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR) 174
9.2.4 False-Color Imaging 174
9.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging 175
9.3 Colorimetry 176
9.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy 177
9.5 Fluorimetry 185
9.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy 186
9.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) 187
References 187
10 Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 191
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
10.1 Introduction 191
10.2 Spectroscopic Methods 192
10.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS) 192
10.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS) 193
10.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman 195
10.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy 201
10.3 Chromatographic Methods 202
10.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC) 202
10.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) 204
10.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) 205
10.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry 206
10.4 Other Techniques 208
References 209
11 Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles 215
Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas
11.1 Introduction 215
11.2 NMR Spectroscopy 216
11.3 Mass Spectrometry 217
11.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 217
11.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy 218
11.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) 218
11.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF) 219
11.8 Transmission Electron Microscope 221
11.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis 221
11.10 DNA Analysis 222
11.11 Amino Acid Composition 223
11.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting 223
11.13 Chromatographic Techniques 225
11.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 226
11.15 Thin Layer Chromatography 228
11.16 Gas Chromatography 229
11.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy 229
11.18 Conclusions 230
References 231
12 Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles with a Focus on Tapestries 235
Rosa Costantini
12.1 Introduction 235
12.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries 236
12.3 Conserving Tapestries 237
12.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration 238
12.3.2 Current Display Methods 239
12.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques 239
12.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing 240
12.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques 241
12.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC 242
12.6 Conclusions 243
References 243
13 Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating 247
Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli
13.1 Introduction 248
13.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings 248
13.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets 252
13.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries 255
13.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes 258
13.6 Conclusion 262
Acknowledgment 263
References 263
14 Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS 267
Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair
14.1 Introduction 267
14.2 Materials and Methods 269
14.2.1 Preparation of Samples 269
14.2.2 Instrumentation 269
14.3 Extraction of Dyes 270
14.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) 270
14.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements 270
14.4 Result and Discussion 270
14.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample 271
14.4.2 Red Dye 271
14.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 271
14.4.4 Green Dye 273
14.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 275
14.4.6 Yellow Dye 275
14.4.7 Black Dye 276
14.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 278
14.5 Future Scope and Studies 280
14.6 Conclusion 280
Acknowledgment 280
References 281
15 Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum Conservation and Exhibition 283
Maria Cybulska
15.1 Introduction 283
15.2 Deterioration of Textiles 284
15.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles 285
15.4 Analysis of Fibers 285
15.5 Analysis of Threads 290
15.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects 292
15.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis 293
15.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles 294
15.9 Conclusion 299
References 300
16 Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation 303
Neven Fahim
16.1 Introduction 303
16.2 Documentation and Condition 304
16.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object 304
16.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study 305
16.2.3 Dating of the Object 305
16.2.4 State of Deterioration 305
16.3 Testing and Analysis 307
16.3.1 Morphological Study 307
16.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 307
16.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis 307
16.3.4 Analysis of Color Values 308
16.4 Results and Discussion 308
16.4.1 Stereo Microscope 308
16.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 308
16.4.3 FTIR Analysis 310
16.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements 312
16.5 Treatment Methodology 312
16.5.1 Humidification Process 313
16.5.2 Testing the Acidity 313
16.5.3 Cleaning Process 313
16.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning 313
16.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning 313
16.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support 314
16.5.5 Permanent Fixation 314
16.6 Conclusion 315
Acknowledgment 315
References 316
17 Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues 319
S. Franca de Sa, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita
17.1 Introduction 320
17.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings 321
17.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion 321
17.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC 322
17.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections 322
17.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections 324
17.2.4.1 TPU Coatings 327
17.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings 332
17.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions 335
17.2.4.4 Main Considerations 336
17.3 Experimental 337
17.3.1 Met Museum 337
17.4 Damage Atlas 337
17.5 Conclusions 341
17.6 Future Research 341
References 342
18 Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles 345
Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez
18.1 Introduction 346
18.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles 348
18.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 349
18.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 350
18.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 352
18.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices 354
18.4 Conclusion 356
Acknowledgments 357
References 357
19 Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums-Novel Approach 361
Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary
19.1 Introduction 361
19.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums 362
19.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums? 363
19.4 Digital Technologies-Tools and Techniques 364
19.4.1 Multimedia Materials 364
19.4.2 The World Wide Web 364
19.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing 364
19.4.4 Presentation Technologies 365
19.4.5 Simulations and Models 365
19.4.6 Microworlds and Games 365
19.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video 365
19.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities 365
19.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum 368
19.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS 368
19.5.2 Websites 369
19.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India) 370
19.5.4 Virtual Museums 370
19.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition) 372
19.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App 372
19.5.7 Roboguides 373
19.5.8 BYOD in Museums 373
19.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions 374
19.6.1 Pros 374
19.6.2 Cons 376
19.7 Conclusion 376
References 377
Index 379
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<p>Conservation; museum textiles; scientific and technological research; physical and chemical agents; biological damage; textiles; microscopy; historical textiles; computational structural analysis; characterization; ancient dyes and prints; art characterization methods; non-destructive testing; non-invasive analytical techniques; dyes and pigments; micro invasive analytical techniques; destructive analytical techniques; assessment of degradation; repair and stabilization; antique textiles; tapestries; antique tapestries and carpets; scientific study; fibers; natural dyes; 19th century; analysis; visualization; exhibition; conservation of a Coptic tapestry; red monastery excavation; synthetic coatings in fashion; identification and preservation issues; nanotechnology-based interventions; digital technologies; virtual museums; heritage of world textile and culture; ancient weaving; dyeing techniques; scientific intervention in ancient textiles; roles and responsibilities of museum; good practices clothing museum; chemical characterization of ancient textiles; carbon dating of ancient textiles; lc-ms and uv-vis; textile repair and reconstruction; textile conservation methods</p>
Preface xv
1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1
Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 2
1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 2
1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 3
1.4.1 Dimensional Changes 4
1.4.2 Change in Modulus 4
1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 5
1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 5
1.5.2 Fading of Dyes 6
1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 6
1.5.4 Light Ageing 7
1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 7
1.6.1 Temperature 7
1.6.2 Relative Humidity 7
1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 8
1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 8
1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 8
1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 9
1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 9
1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 9
1.9.1 Insects and Pests 9
1.9.2 Mold 11
1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 11
1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 11
1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 13
1.11.1 Alienation 13
1.11.2 Fire 13
1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 13
1.12 Avoiding Damages 13
1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 13
1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 14
1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 14
1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 15
1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 15
1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 15
1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 16
1.13.1 Moth Management 16
1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 16
1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 17
1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 18
1.13.2.3 Traditional Method 18
1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 18
1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 18
1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles 19
1.14 Conclusion 19
References 20
2 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23
Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu
2.1 Introduction 23
2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 25
2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 25
2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 26
2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 27
2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 28
2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 28
2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 29
2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 30
2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 30
2.4.1 Prevention Methods 31
2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 31
2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 31
2.4.1.3 Storage 32
2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 32
2.4.2 Remediation Methods 33
2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 34
2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 34
2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 34
2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 35
2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 35
2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 35
2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 36
2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles 37
2.6 Conclusion 37
References 38
3 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45
Hana Lukesova
3.1 Introduction 45
3.2 Optical Microscopy 46
3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 46
3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 47
3.2.1.2 Finishing 47
3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 48
3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 49
3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 50
3.2.2.4 Finishing 51
3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 52
3.2.3 Digital Microscopy 52
3.3 Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 53
3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 53
3.3.1.3 Finishing 54
3.3.1.4 Dyeing 54
3.3.1.5 Quality 54
3.3.1.6 Degradation 55
3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 55
3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 56
3.4 Conclusion 56
References 57
4 Computational Structural Analysis 61
Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel
4.1 Introduction 61
4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 62
4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 65
4.3 Historical Textiles' Modeling 67
4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 67
4.3.2 Finite Element Method 68
4.3.3 The Rheological Model 68
4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 70
4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 71
4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 76
4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 76
4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 77
4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 78
4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 79
4.5 Conclusion 79
Acknowledgement 80
References 80
5 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85
Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety
5.1 Introduction 85
5.2 Characterization Methods 87
5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 87
5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 89
5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 90
5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 90
5.2.2.3 Detectors 92
5.2.2.4 Limitations 93
5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 94
5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 96
5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 97
5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 99
5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 100
5.3 Printing Techniques 101
5.4 Conclusion 102
References 103
6 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107
Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He
6.1 Introduction 108
6.2 Dating of Textiles 108
6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 110
6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 110
6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 111
6.3 Molecular Analysis 112
6.3.1 DNA Analysis 112
6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 114
6.4 Proteomics 115
6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 115
6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 117
6.5 Isotopic Tracing 118
6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 118
6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.6 Thermal Analysis 120
6.7 Optical Measurement Tests 121
6.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis 122
6.8.1 Mass Spectrometry 123
6.8.2 Chromatography 123
6.8.3 Electrophoresis 124
6.8.4 Microextraction 124
6.9 Conclusion 126
References 126
7 Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles 131
Anna Klisinska-Kopacz
7.1 Introduction 131
7.2 Sampling 132
7.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays 133
7.3.1 X-Ray Radiography 133
7.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence 135
7.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis 137
7.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction 139
7.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy 140
7.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 141
7.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy 143
7.5 Case Studies 144
7.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner 144
7.5.2 16th Century Carpet 146
References 148
8 NDT of Historic Textiles-Brief on Theory and Applications 151
Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose
8.1 Introduction 151
8.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy 152
8.3 Atomic Force Microscopy 154
8.4 Raman Spectroscopy 154
8.5 Computed Tomography 156
8.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy 157
8.7 Optical Microscope 157
8.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer 159
8.9 Carbon Dating 161
8.10 X-Ray Diffraction 162
8.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy 163
8.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 164
8.13 Conclusion 165
References 165
9 Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 171
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
9.1 Introduction 171
9.2 Photographic Methods 172
9.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR) 173
9.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence 173
9.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR) 174
9.2.4 False-Color Imaging 174
9.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging 175
9.3 Colorimetry 176
9.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy 177
9.5 Fluorimetry 185
9.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy 186
9.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) 187
References 187
10 Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 191
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
10.1 Introduction 191
10.2 Spectroscopic Methods 192
10.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS) 192
10.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS) 193
10.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman 195
10.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy 201
10.3 Chromatographic Methods 202
10.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC) 202
10.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) 204
10.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) 205
10.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry 206
10.4 Other Techniques 208
References 209
11 Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles 215
Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas
11.1 Introduction 215
11.2 NMR Spectroscopy 216
11.3 Mass Spectrometry 217
11.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 217
11.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy 218
11.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) 218
11.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF) 219
11.8 Transmission Electron Microscope 221
11.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis 221
11.10 DNA Analysis 222
11.11 Amino Acid Composition 223
11.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting 223
11.13 Chromatographic Techniques 225
11.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 226
11.15 Thin Layer Chromatography 228
11.16 Gas Chromatography 229
11.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy 229
11.18 Conclusions 230
References 231
12 Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles with a Focus on Tapestries 235
Rosa Costantini
12.1 Introduction 235
12.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries 236
12.3 Conserving Tapestries 237
12.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration 238
12.3.2 Current Display Methods 239
12.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques 239
12.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing 240
12.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques 241
12.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC 242
12.6 Conclusions 243
References 243
13 Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating 247
Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli
13.1 Introduction 248
13.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings 248
13.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets 252
13.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries 255
13.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes 258
13.6 Conclusion 262
Acknowledgment 263
References 263
14 Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS 267
Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair
14.1 Introduction 267
14.2 Materials and Methods 269
14.2.1 Preparation of Samples 269
14.2.2 Instrumentation 269
14.3 Extraction of Dyes 270
14.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) 270
14.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements 270
14.4 Result and Discussion 270
14.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample 271
14.4.2 Red Dye 271
14.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 271
14.4.4 Green Dye 273
14.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 275
14.4.6 Yellow Dye 275
14.4.7 Black Dye 276
14.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 278
14.5 Future Scope and Studies 280
14.6 Conclusion 280
Acknowledgment 280
References 281
15 Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum Conservation and Exhibition 283
Maria Cybulska
15.1 Introduction 283
15.2 Deterioration of Textiles 284
15.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles 285
15.4 Analysis of Fibers 285
15.5 Analysis of Threads 290
15.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects 292
15.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis 293
15.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles 294
15.9 Conclusion 299
References 300
16 Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation 303
Neven Fahim
16.1 Introduction 303
16.2 Documentation and Condition 304
16.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object 304
16.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study 305
16.2.3 Dating of the Object 305
16.2.4 State of Deterioration 305
16.3 Testing and Analysis 307
16.3.1 Morphological Study 307
16.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 307
16.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis 307
16.3.4 Analysis of Color Values 308
16.4 Results and Discussion 308
16.4.1 Stereo Microscope 308
16.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 308
16.4.3 FTIR Analysis 310
16.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements 312
16.5 Treatment Methodology 312
16.5.1 Humidification Process 313
16.5.2 Testing the Acidity 313
16.5.3 Cleaning Process 313
16.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning 313
16.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning 313
16.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support 314
16.5.5 Permanent Fixation 314
16.6 Conclusion 315
Acknowledgment 315
References 316
17 Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues 319
S. Franca de Sa, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita
17.1 Introduction 320
17.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings 321
17.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion 321
17.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC 322
17.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections 322
17.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections 324
17.2.4.1 TPU Coatings 327
17.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings 332
17.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions 335
17.2.4.4 Main Considerations 336
17.3 Experimental 337
17.3.1 Met Museum 337
17.4 Damage Atlas 337
17.5 Conclusions 341
17.6 Future Research 341
References 342
18 Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles 345
Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez
18.1 Introduction 346
18.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles 348
18.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 349
18.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 350
18.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 352
18.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices 354
18.4 Conclusion 356
Acknowledgments 357
References 357
19 Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums-Novel Approach 361
Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary
19.1 Introduction 361
19.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums 362
19.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums? 363
19.4 Digital Technologies-Tools and Techniques 364
19.4.1 Multimedia Materials 364
19.4.2 The World Wide Web 364
19.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing 364
19.4.4 Presentation Technologies 365
19.4.5 Simulations and Models 365
19.4.6 Microworlds and Games 365
19.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video 365
19.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities 365
19.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum 368
19.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS 368
19.5.2 Websites 369
19.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India) 370
19.5.4 Virtual Museums 370
19.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition) 372
19.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App 372
19.5.7 Roboguides 373
19.5.8 BYOD in Museums 373
19.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions 374
19.6.1 Pros 374
19.6.2 Cons 376
19.7 Conclusion 376
References 377
Index 379
1 Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention 1
Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik
1.1 Introduction 1
1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles 2
1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials 2
1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses 3
1.4.1 Dimensional Changes 4
1.4.2 Change in Modulus 4
1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation 5
1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering 5
1.5.2 Fading of Dyes 6
1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering 6
1.5.4 Light Ageing 7
1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature 7
1.6.1 Temperature 7
1.6.2 Relative Humidity 7
1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature 8
1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water 8
1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants 8
1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants 9
1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants 9
1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents 9
1.9.1 Insects and Pests 9
1.9.2 Mold 11
1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents 11
1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles 11
1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles 13
1.11.1 Alienation 13
1.11.2 Fire 13
1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism 13
1.12 Avoiding Damages 13
1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity 13
1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation 14
1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels 14
1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest 15
1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants 15
1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages 15
1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles 16
1.13.1 Moth Management 16
1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management 16
1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections 17
1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping 18
1.13.2.3 Traditional Method 18
1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests 18
1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing 18
1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles 19
1.14 Conclusion 19
References 20
2 Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods 23
Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu
2.1 Introduction 23
2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi) 25
2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections 25
2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms 26
2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms 27
2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects 28
2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections 28
2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects 29
2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections 30
2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 30
2.4.1 Prevention Methods 31
2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects 31
2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions 31
2.4.1.3 Storage 32
2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring 32
2.4.2 Remediation Methods 33
2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing) 34
2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating) 34
2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation 34
2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres 35
2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal 35
2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods 35
2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles 36
2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles 37
2.6 Conclusion 37
References 38
3 Microscopy of Historical Textiles 45
Hana Lukesova
3.1 Introduction 45
3.2 Optical Microscopy 46
3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes 46
3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques 47
3.2.1.2 Finishing 47
3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes 48
3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy 48
3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy 49
3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification 50
3.2.2.4 Finishing 51
3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack 52
3.2.3 Digital Microscopy 52
3.3 Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy 53
3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation 53
3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs 53
3.3.1.3 Finishing 54
3.3.1.4 Dyeing 54
3.3.1.5 Quality 54
3.3.1.6 Degradation 55
3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy 55
3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation 56
3.4 Conclusion 56
References 57
4 Computational Structural Analysis 61
Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel
4.1 Introduction 61
4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile 62
4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles 63
4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles 65
4.3 Historical Textiles' Modeling 67
4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis 67
4.3.2 Finite Element Method 68
4.3.3 The Rheological Model 68
4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior 70
4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I] 71
4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II] 76
4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies 76
4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy 77
4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System 78
4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits 79
4.5 Conclusion 79
Acknowledgement 80
References 80
5 Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints 85
Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety
5.1 Introduction 85
5.2 Characterization Methods 87
5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography 87
5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 89
5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis 90
5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods 90
5.2.2.3 Detectors 92
5.2.2.4 Limitations 93
5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy 94
5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy 96
5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy 97
5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy 99
5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry 100
5.3 Printing Techniques 101
5.4 Conclusion 102
References 103
6 State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles 107
Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He
6.1 Introduction 108
6.2 Dating of Textiles 108
6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating 109
6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements 110
6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating 110
6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating 111
6.3 Molecular Analysis 112
6.3.1 DNA Analysis 112
6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition 114
6.4 Proteomics 115
6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles 115
6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred 117
6.5 Isotopic Tracing 118
6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System 118
6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing 119
6.6 Thermal Analysis 120
6.7 Optical Measurement Tests 121
6.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis 122
6.8.1 Mass Spectrometry 123
6.8.2 Chromatography 123
6.8.3 Electrophoresis 124
6.8.4 Microextraction 124
6.9 Conclusion 126
References 126
7 Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles 131
Anna Klisinska-Kopacz
7.1 Introduction 131
7.2 Sampling 132
7.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays 133
7.3.1 X-Ray Radiography 133
7.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence 135
7.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis 137
7.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction 139
7.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy 140
7.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 141
7.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy 143
7.5 Case Studies 144
7.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner 144
7.5.2 16th Century Carpet 146
References 148
8 NDT of Historic Textiles-Brief on Theory and Applications 151
Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose
8.1 Introduction 151
8.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy 152
8.3 Atomic Force Microscopy 154
8.4 Raman Spectroscopy 154
8.5 Computed Tomography 156
8.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy 157
8.7 Optical Microscope 157
8.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer 159
8.9 Carbon Dating 161
8.10 X-Ray Diffraction 162
8.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy 163
8.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy 164
8.13 Conclusion 165
References 165
9 Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 171
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
9.1 Introduction 171
9.2 Photographic Methods 172
9.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR) 173
9.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence 173
9.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR) 174
9.2.4 False-Color Imaging 174
9.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging 175
9.3 Colorimetry 176
9.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy 177
9.5 Fluorimetry 185
9.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy 186
9.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) 187
References 187
10 Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles 191
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
10.1 Introduction 191
10.2 Spectroscopic Methods 192
10.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS) 192
10.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS) 193
10.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman 195
10.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy 201
10.3 Chromatographic Methods 202
10.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC) 202
10.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) 204
10.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) 205
10.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry 206
10.4 Other Techniques 208
References 209
11 Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles 215
Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas
11.1 Introduction 215
11.2 NMR Spectroscopy 216
11.3 Mass Spectrometry 217
11.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 217
11.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy 218
11.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) 218
11.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF) 219
11.8 Transmission Electron Microscope 221
11.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis 221
11.10 DNA Analysis 222
11.11 Amino Acid Composition 223
11.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting 223
11.13 Chromatographic Techniques 225
11.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography 226
11.15 Thin Layer Chromatography 228
11.16 Gas Chromatography 229
11.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy 229
11.18 Conclusions 230
References 231
12 Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles with a Focus on Tapestries 235
Rosa Costantini
12.1 Introduction 235
12.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries 236
12.3 Conserving Tapestries 237
12.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration 238
12.3.2 Current Display Methods 239
12.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques 239
12.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing 240
12.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques 241
12.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC 242
12.6 Conclusions 243
References 243
13 Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating 247
Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli
13.1 Introduction 248
13.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings 248
13.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets 252
13.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries 255
13.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes 258
13.6 Conclusion 262
Acknowledgment 263
References 263
14 Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS 267
Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair
14.1 Introduction 267
14.2 Materials and Methods 269
14.2.1 Preparation of Samples 269
14.2.2 Instrumentation 269
14.3 Extraction of Dyes 270
14.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS) 270
14.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements 270
14.4 Result and Discussion 270
14.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample 271
14.4.2 Red Dye 271
14.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 271
14.4.4 Green Dye 273
14.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 275
14.4.6 Yellow Dye 275
14.4.7 Black Dye 276
14.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy 278
14.5 Future Scope and Studies 280
14.6 Conclusion 280
Acknowledgment 280
References 281
15 Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum Conservation and Exhibition 283
Maria Cybulska
15.1 Introduction 283
15.2 Deterioration of Textiles 284
15.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles 285
15.4 Analysis of Fibers 285
15.5 Analysis of Threads 290
15.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects 292
15.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis 293
15.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles 294
15.9 Conclusion 299
References 300
16 Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation 303
Neven Fahim
16.1 Introduction 303
16.2 Documentation and Condition 304
16.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object 304
16.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study 305
16.2.3 Dating of the Object 305
16.2.4 State of Deterioration 305
16.3 Testing and Analysis 307
16.3.1 Morphological Study 307
16.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 307
16.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis 307
16.3.4 Analysis of Color Values 308
16.4 Results and Discussion 308
16.4.1 Stereo Microscope 308
16.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope 308
16.4.3 FTIR Analysis 310
16.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements 312
16.5 Treatment Methodology 312
16.5.1 Humidification Process 313
16.5.2 Testing the Acidity 313
16.5.3 Cleaning Process 313
16.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning 313
16.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning 313
16.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support 314
16.5.5 Permanent Fixation 314
16.6 Conclusion 315
Acknowledgment 315
References 316
17 Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues 319
S. Franca de Sa, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita
17.1 Introduction 320
17.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings 321
17.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion 321
17.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC 322
17.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections 322
17.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections 324
17.2.4.1 TPU Coatings 327
17.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings 332
17.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions 335
17.2.4.4 Main Considerations 336
17.3 Experimental 337
17.3.1 Met Museum 337
17.4 Damage Atlas 337
17.5 Conclusions 341
17.6 Future Research 341
References 342
18 Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles 345
Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez
18.1 Introduction 346
18.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles 348
18.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 349
18.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 350
18.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies 352
18.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices 354
18.4 Conclusion 356
Acknowledgments 357
References 357
19 Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums-Novel Approach 361
Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary
19.1 Introduction 361
19.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums 362
19.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums? 363
19.4 Digital Technologies-Tools and Techniques 364
19.4.1 Multimedia Materials 364
19.4.2 The World Wide Web 364
19.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing 364
19.4.4 Presentation Technologies 365
19.4.5 Simulations and Models 365
19.4.6 Microworlds and Games 365
19.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video 365
19.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities 365
19.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum 368
19.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS 368
19.5.2 Websites 369
19.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India) 370
19.5.4 Virtual Museums 370
19.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition) 372
19.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App 372
19.5.7 Roboguides 373
19.5.8 BYOD in Museums 373
19.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions 374
19.6.1 Pros 374
19.6.2 Cons 376
19.7 Conclusion 376
References 377
Index 379
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<p>Conservation; museum textiles; scientific and technological research; physical and chemical agents; biological damage; textiles; microscopy; historical textiles; computational structural analysis; characterization; ancient dyes and prints; art characterization methods; non-destructive testing; non-invasive analytical techniques; dyes and pigments; micro invasive analytical techniques; destructive analytical techniques; assessment of degradation; repair and stabilization; antique textiles; tapestries; antique tapestries and carpets; scientific study; fibers; natural dyes; 19th century; analysis; visualization; exhibition; conservation of a Coptic tapestry; red monastery excavation; synthetic coatings in fashion; identification and preservation issues; nanotechnology-based interventions; digital technologies; virtual museums; heritage of world textile and culture; ancient weaving; dyeing techniques; scientific intervention in ancient textiles; roles and responsibilities of museum; good practices clothing museum; chemical characterization of ancient textiles; carbon dating of ancient textiles; lc-ms and uv-vis; textile repair and reconstruction; textile conservation methods</p>
