Complete Guide to Dressmaking

Complete Guide to Dressmaking

All the Essential Techniques and Skills You Need

Fallon, Jules

Search Press Ltd

10/2024

256

Mole

9781800923294

Pré-lançamento - envio 15 a 20 dias após a sua edição

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Meet Jules Fallon 8



CHAPTER 1: KIT 10



Essential equipment 12

Needle know-how 15

Cutting it 18

Machine anatomy 20

Sewing machine feet 22

Choosing your thread 24

Dressmaking haberdashery 26



CHAPTER 2: PREP 28



Understanding fabrics 30 - Woven p. 31, Silks p. 32, Wools and wool mixes p. 33, Knitted p. 34, Bonded p. 34, Special-occasion 35Choosing fabrics 36

Interfacing 38

Fabric preparation 39

Pattern envelope information 40

Understanding pattern symbols 44

Measuring 46

Size charts and measurements 48

Making a fitted toile 50

Laying out the paper pattern 54 - What pattern pieces do you need? 54, How to follow a layplan 55, Working with patterned fabrics 57

Pinning and cutting fabric 60 - Marking fabric 62

Adapting a pattern 64



CHAPTER 3: MAKE 68



Pressing matters 70

Creating shape 72 - Darts 72, Gathering 76, Pleats and tucks 79, Shirring 86

Seams 88 - Finishing seams 94

Pockets 98 - In-seam pocket 98, Patch pocket 100, Welt pocket 102, Jetted pocket 105, Western-style pocket 108, Cargo pocket 110

Openings and closures 114 - Placket opening 114, Continuous-bound opening 116, Centre-back vent 118, Buttons and buttonholes 120, Hooks and eyes 126, Press studs 127

Zips 128 - Centred zip 128, Fly zip 130, Lapped zip 133, Concealed zip 136, Concealed zip with a facing 138, Lapped zip with a facing 140, Exposed zip with a facing 143

Sleeves 146 - Set-in sleeve 148, Two-piece sleeve 150, Raglan sleeve 152, Shirt sleeve 154

Cuffs 156 - Shirt cuff 156, French cuff 158

Collars 159 - Shirt collar 160, Peter Pan collar 166, Convertible collar 168, Shawl collar 172

Yokes 176 - Double yoke 176

Waistbands 178 - Straight waistband 179, Curved waistband 182, Belt loops 184, Elastic casing 185

Decorative features 188 - Bias strips 188, Piping 191, Rouleau cord 194, Inserting lace 197, Frills and flounces 198, Topstitching 200



CHAPTER 4: STRETCH 202



Stretch fabric characteristics 204 - Why knit is different to woven fabric 204, Different types of knit fabric 206, Elastic and stabilisers 209

Working with stretch fabric 212 - You don't need an overlocker 212, Edge finishes for necklines and armholes 213, Hemming and using a twin needle 217



CHAPTER 5: FINISH 220



Bound edges 222 - Positioning the bias strip 222, Attaching the bias strip 223, Finishing the bias strip 224

Facings 226 - Neck facing 226, Waist facing 228, All-in-one facing 230

Understitching and edge stitching 232 - Understitching 232, Edge stitching 233

Hems 234 - Hand sewing 235, Machine sewing 238

Linings 242 - Skirt lining 243, Bodice or dress lining 246



Resources 248

Glossary 250

Index 252

Credits 256
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sewing techniques; techniques; needlecraft; sewing; dressmaking